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Extract
Extract brewing relieves the brewer of a few steps and speeds up the process. In extract brewing you simply create the pre-hopped wort with prepackaged liquid or dry malt and possibly some crushed grain and black patent steeped in the boil water. I could throw up some instructions on full grain brewing but I have not yet done one and want this to be a guide that contains tips along with instructions. I also feel that simply throwing up instructions can be too dry and not make a reader truly get a feel for what is involved.
Equipment
I suggest a kit from Norther Brewer but will list the main pieces you need, especially since they send a few weird things you don't really need and may confuse you.
- 6+ gallon glass carboy
- 6+ gallon bottling bucket with spigot
- Airlock and plug
- Siphon Tubing
- AutoSiphon or Racking Cane
- Bottle Filler
- Carboy Brush
- Bottle Capper
- 144 bottle caps
- Thermometer
- Hydrometer
- One Step Rinser or Non Scented Bleach
Water
Water is important to having good beer. Too many minerals and contaminents will lead to an undesirable beer. Therefore, it is recommended that you use a charcoal filter(like Brita or Aqua Pure) in order to get rid of most of the things that can give your beer and off taste.
Filtering water takes time, so plan ahead. While you are sanitizing, you can start filtering your initial two gallons of water for the boil and collect it in the pot. Once the boil has started, you can start filtering 3 more gallons and collecting it in the bottling bucket. This will be added with the wort in the primary fermenter, once the wort has boiled and chilled.
Sanitizing
I must stress sanitizing but don't want to scare at the same time. Don't freak out about keeping everything sanitized, but do sanitize everything. You may not have to create an operating room out of your home but you also don't want a litter box of a home. People have been brewing for thousands of years before they even knew what bleach was.
The way I sanitize is by filling up the bottling bucket and carboy each with 3-4 gallons of water and 1 tablespoon of One-Step or bleach per gallon. If using something that is no rinse like One-Step you may still want to do a slight rinse since the wrong proportion with the water you are soaking in and it isn't really "no rinse". Then, place all the parts, besides the glass carboy of course, in the bottling bucket. I should mention that on the day you brew you don't actually don't need the bottle carboy brush, bottle caps, bottle capper or hydrometer to be sanitized, but better to say "all the parts" in case you just read that sentence. Give it a dozen or couple dozen minutes to soak and then rinse everything off. I prefer to use the bathtub for all this, makes it much easier for filling buckets and rinsing. Run water through the tubing and auto-siphon or racking cane a couple times and all over the other pieces. Next, run the water down the sides of the bottling bucket and swash it around a couple times with new water to fully rinse it. After rinsing all the parts you placed in the bucket and the bucket itself dump out half of the carboy water and then use the rest to swirl around to make sure you sanitize every part of the carboy. Pour out the rest of the sanitized water and do the same process as above with the bucket to the carboy.
Now you have all your pieces sanitized and are ready to start making beer!
Boil
The boil is basically how you create the wort. Wort is simply the beer mixture that does not yet have yeast, so no way of fermenting.
With extract brewing you will want to have at least a 5-gallon pot. Failure do this will ensure a boil over. Even with a 5-gallon pot boil overs can occur, so you need to make sure to always have an eye on the pot for the first 10 minutes or so after you add the malt and initial hops.
Start your boil by first adding 2 gallons of filtered water to the pot. It is important you use water filtered with a charcoal filter(like Brita or Aqua Pure). This will ensure that you get rid of some of the harsh minerals and other deposits that may be in your tap water. Left unfiltered these nasties will give your beer and undesired taste.
Now it is time to start heating the water. If you have a gas stove, simply turn your burner to high. If you have an electric burner, it is often recommended to add a small metal spacer between the coils and pot to make sure you don't have carmelization. You can make your own spacer just by bending a metal wire hanger into the shape of a + symbol, then putting it between the pot and burner.
Steeping Grains
Lots of kits and recipes call for steeping grains. The steeping of grains is done right around 170 degrees farenheit. If you do not have a fermometer you can tell it is time to steep when the hot water starts producing steam.
To steep the grains, put them in a muslin bag, tie it up, and drop them in the water. You will need to let them sit in there for 15 minutes. You must make sure the water does not come to a boil. This will more than likely mean you can to turn your burner down to medium in order to maintain the temperature without it getting too high.
After 15 minutes of steeping, simply remove the bag with a fork or some other untensil then throw it away.
Malt
The malt is basically the sugar for the yeast to produce alcohol and CO2. Extract kits come with two forms of malt: dry malt extract(DME) and liquid malt extract.
Before we add the malt we need to bring the water to a boil(212 degrees fahrenheit). Once the water has reached boiling, remove it from the heat. It is important to remove the pot from heat while adding the malt in order to avoid scorching and carmelization at the bottom of the pot. Now add all the malt both dry and/or liquid while stirring the mixture. If you get some clumping with the dry malt extract(DME), don't worry about it, they will break up during the first few minutes of the boil.
Once all the malt has been added, place the pot back on the stove and bring it back to a boil.
Hops
Hops are what give beer bitterness, flavor and aroma. When you have had an Indial Pale Ale(IPA) and had that strong taste, that is hops that you are tasting.
Hops are a special thing in that depending when you add them to the boil depends on whether they add bitterness, flavor, or aroma.
Hops added at the beginning of the boil will add bitterness. Hops added 10 minutes or less before the boil is done will add flavor. Finally, hops added immediately at the end of the boil will add aroma.
Most kit and recipes describe when to add the hops by giving you times such as 60 minutes, 10 minutes, and 0 minutes. These times are given in terms of how long to add before the end of boil.
A typical boil lasts 60 minutes. So when a recipe calls for adding hops at 60 minutes, that means add them as soon as the water starts boiling. When the hops are supposed to be added at 10 minutes, this means to add the hops 50 minutes into the boil. Finally, if the recipe says 0 minutes, that means add them as soon as the boiling period is done.
You might be asking yourself, why would they do it in reverse like that? The simple reason is, some people like to boil for longer then 60 minutes, but boiling hops for longer than 60 minutes can have adverse affects. Therefore, it is easier to tell the brewer how long to add the hops according to the end of the boil, instead of from the beginning.
Chilling the Wort
A few minutes before the boil period is over, you will want to put 2-4 inches of cold water in your sink, along with some ice cubs if you have it. I personally like to use left over pop bottles filled with water that have been frozen.
Once the boil period is over, put the pot in the sink. This will help speed up the process of cooling the wort.
Changing out the water a few times will also help speed up the process of cooling the wort. Once it reaches 80-85 degrees, or is fairly cool to the touch, it is ready to be racked(moved) to the primary fermenter.
Racking to Primary Fermenter
In the primary fermenter you will want to first add 2 gallons of cool filtered water. Next you have two options of how to transfer the wort into the primary fermenter from the pot.
Siphon vs Strainer
The siphon makes transferring wort from the pot to primary fermenter quicker and easier, also, you will already have a siphon, so i won't need to spend the extra money. However, the siphon is not good at filtering out stuff. This means you will invariably get some sediment and hops leftover from the boil into the primary fermenter. This can sometimes add undesired flavors into the beer, and also make for a beer with less clarity.
The strainer method takes a little bit longer, but it ensures you are filtering out all the stuff from the boil that you do not want anymore. It does add an added expenditure, but only a few bucks. It also makes sure you get every last drop of beer, as you don't have to worry about not siphoning that last inch or half inch of sludge at the bottom of your pot, as it will be all filtered out anyways.
Option 1: Siphon
You can use the auto siphon to transfer the wort from the pot into the primary fermenter. The auto siphon works by putting the tubing into the primary fermenter, and the siphon part into the pot, then giving a few pumps. This will start the siphoning action and continue on its own. Towards the end of the siphoning make sure to not get the leftover sediment at the bottom of the pan.
Option 2: Funnel with Strainer
To use the funnel with a strainer, simply snap the strainer into the funnel(you can buy them specific to your funnel), place it on the primary fermenter, then start pouring the wort into it from your pot. Make sure not to pour too fast! There will be lots of things like hops and leftover sediment that get trapped in the strainer, which will slow it down. You will more than likely have to stop pouring, and stir around the mixture in the funnel in order to help it through, then cleaning out the excess hops and sediment but washing it under water for a few seconds, then repeating. I find I have to do this about 5 times.
Finishing
Once you have transferred the wort you will want to add more filtered water, until you have 5 gallons total in your carboy. Remember, you are using a 6 gallon carboy, so don't fill it all the way to the top! You need the extra space as the fermentation will cause krausen(foam looking stuff) to form.
Once you have 5 gallons total, put on the airlock, at a little water into it, then store it.
Storing
The primary fermentation will take anywhere from 3-7 days usually. You want to store it in a place that is dark, but easily accessible, so you can check on it. Also, make sure it is place that where if the krausen were to overflow, it won't cause too much of a mess. It is always good practice to at least have a towel under the carboy wherever you store it.
Another important criteria is temperature. Most yeasts ferment better at different temperatures. You want a room with a stable temperature that does not get too warm. Remember that fermentation will add an extra 4-5 degrees to the temperature, so plan accordingly.
Racking to Secondary Fermenter
Why do it?
Though it is not required, most beers, especially beers with a higher original gravity(OG) or alcohol content will improve with a secondary fermentation. A secondary fermentation allows the beer to age a little more and develop more clarity as more sediment will settle out of the beer to the bottom of the carboy.
Racking
Racking to secondary is very simple. You need to sanitize another carboy(only needs to be 5 gallons), air lock, and siphoning equipment. You do not want to use the funnel for this step, as it will add too much oxygen into the beer, which is bad at this point.
Once your equipment is sanitized, you simply siphon from the primary to the secondary. Make sure the siphon end stays above the sediment that has formed at the bottom of the primary fermenter. Towards the end of the siphoning, you can tip the primary fermenter at an angle, so you make sure to get every last drop of beer.
Put the newly sanitize airlock on, add a little water, and store in the same place that you had the primary fermenter.
Racking Time
Racking time depends on the alcohol content which consquently depends on the original gravity(OG). Use the following to determine how long to have your beer in a secondary fermenter.
If your OG is less than 1.060:
- Calculate OG difference by subtracting (OG-1.000)/.010
- Multiply that by 3 days to get minimum number of days
- Multiply that by 7 days to get maximum number of days
Example, if you have an OG of 1.040
- (1.040-1.000)/.010 = 4
- 4*3 = 12 days minimum
- 4*7 = 28 days maximum
If your OG is greater than 1.060
- Calculate OG difference by subtracting OG-1.000
- Multiply that by 7 days to get minimum number of days
- Multiply that by 14 days to get maximum number of days
Example, if you have an OG of 1.080
- (1.080-1.000)/.010 = 8
- 8*7 = 56 days minimum
- 8*14 = 112 days maximum
Bottling
For some bottling is the funnest time, for others, it is the most annoying time. I enjoy bottling myself, as you are at the final step of creating your homebrew!
Bottles
You will need 48-52 non-twist off bottles. You will want the bottles that require a bottle opener, not the ones where you can simply just twist off. You have two options of acquirring bottles. If you are in a pinch, you can always buy them from your favorite homebrew store. The second option is save your empties. While many places are starting to use the twist off type of bottle more and more(like Goose Island), there are still some that cater kindly to the homebrew crowd. Almost every Belgian beer(especially trappist) use a standard bottle. Samual Adam's, Doghead Fish, and New Belgium Brewing are some of the other American breweries that are nice enough to use standard bottles. Between you and your friends, you should be able to collect 48-52 bottles in no time!
A quick tip on removing labels. If you want to remove the labels from the bottles so your beer looks like a homebrew and not some commercial knockoff, you can simple soak the bottles in a soapy water overnight in your sink, and in the morning the labels will come off fairly easily.
Sanitizing
For bottling you will need to sanitize the bottles of course, siphon equipment, plastic 6 gallon bottling bucket, bottling hose, bottling attachment, and the bottling caps. You do not need to sanitize the capper.
All the things mentioned are simply enough to sanitize, however I will say a few notes about sanitizing bottles. You can sanitize the bottles on the day of bottling by mixing up a solution of 1 tbl spoon of bleach for every gallon of water in a bucket, then putting as many bottles in at a time as you can. Let them sit for 20 minutes, then rinse them really well, inside and out. Let them air dry for a little bit, and they are ready for bottling.
It is also possible to sanitize bottles before bottling day. To do so, make the same solution in the same bucket, or even a bigger bucket, like a plastic garbage can, then put your bottles in there. This time, instead of rinsing them, just pour out and shake off the excess the bleach/water solution and then put a little bit of aluminum foil over the top. Go ahead and store them somewhere for up 3 months. When you are ready to bottle, take off the aluminum foil, rinse the bottles inside and outside well then you are ready to go.
Priming Solution
Since we homebrewers can't afford fancy bottling equipment that adds carbonation during the bottling phase, we use what is calling priming. Simply, you add a sugar solution into the beer. This will restart the yeast just enough in the bottle that it will create C02, which will be absorbed back into the beer, creating carbonation.
To prepare the priming solution, simply boil a pint of water with 5 ounces of corn sugar for 15 minutes.
Filling the Bottles
First add the priming solution into the 6 gallon plastic bottling bucket. Next you need to transfer the beer from the primary fermenter or secondary fermenter, into the plastic bottling bucket.
Now attach the bottling hose to the spigot at the bottom of the bucket, at the other end add the bottling attachment. You are now ready to bottle.
First turn on the spigot, so that beer will flow through the tube. Now, take a sanitize bottle, but the bottling attachment in all the way to the bottom and push down. This will open the release valve and beer will start filling in the bottle. Fill beer almost all the way to the top. Once you take out the bottling attachment there will be about an inch of space left in the bottle, which is perfect.
To cap, put sanitized cap on top of the bottle, put your capper on it, then push down with the handles. This will squeeze the cap into a tight fit on the bottle. Congratulations you have bottled you first beer of your new homebrew!
This job is really meant for two people. However, if you have to bottle on your own, instead of capping each bottle as you go, just put the cap on the bottles, then use the capper on them all at the end once all the bottles are filled.
Conditioning
Once you have bottled the beer you will need to let it condition for 10-14 days in order to give ample time to carbonate. Conditioning is best done in the same atmosphere as where your primary fermentation was done, a cool, dark place.
Aging
After your beer has conditioned, congratulations, it is ready to drink! However, some beers, especially those with a higher alcohol content, will taste better with a little aging. There is no magic formula for aging. If a kit or recipe recommends a specific aging time, then you should probably do it. Aging beyond that time may or may not be beneficial, the only way to find out is to try it! I usually age to what is recommended by the recipe or kit, but then save a few and age them longer to see what happens. It is all a learning experience. Either way the beer will taste good, just in different ways depending on the aging.
Final Word
Homebrewing is about having fun. You more than likely will make mistakes, but most of them, with the exception of sanitation, won't end up being a big deal. If you run into problems, or just have general questions, there is almost always a homebrewer or two on the IRC channel, or you can also email the ChiGLUG mailing list.
Categories: Beer | HowTo | Stub
